Permanent Jewelry Chain Buying Guide: Figaro, Disc & Dapped

Quick answer

For most permanent jewelry artists, start with a 14/20 gold-fill dapped disc chain for clients who want a soft, reflective look, and add a mixed-metal Figaro for clients who want a heavier, two-tone statement. Disc and dapped styles weld cleanly and drape well on wrists and necks, while Figaro links need a slightly larger jump ring and a bit more practice to close flush. If you are unsure, buy one spool of each style and let the client's daily wear and metal preference decide.

Why 14/20 gold fill matters for welded jewelry

The 14/20 marking means the gold layer is 14-karat and makes up one-twentieth of the metal's total weight by law. That is a thicker gold layer than plating, so it resists wear from daily showers, lotion, and friction far better. For permanent jewelry, this matters because the piece is welded on and stays on. A plated chain can flake or discolor at the weld point within weeks, while a 14/20 gold-fill chain keeps its color through repeated polishing. When you weld, keep the torch or welder setting low and work quickly; the gold layer is durable but not indestructible. Always test a scrap link before welding a client's chain.

Matching link style to client lifestyle

Link shape changes how a chain feels and how it wears. Dapped discs are curved slightly, so they catch light and lie flat against skin without twisting. Figaro links alternate short and long sections, which gives the chain more visual weight and a classic look. A mixed-metal Figaro adds a second color without extra clasp hardware. For clients who type all day or wear a watch on the same wrist, a flatter disc chain tends to snag less. For clients who want a chain that reads as a statement on its own, a Figaro or mixed-metal design works better. Ask what they wear on that wrist now, then match the link style to that answer.

Sizing and fit for wrists, necks, and anklets

Permanent jewelry has no clasp, so fit is final. Measure the client's wrist snugly, then add 1/4 to 1/2 inch for comfort and movement. For a necklace, measure the base of the neck and add 2 to 4 inches depending on where the client wants the chain to sit. Anklets need 1/2 to 1 inch of slack so the chain does not press when the foot flexes. Always add the weld joint length to your measurement before cutting. If the client is between sizes, size up rather than down; a chain that is too tight is uncomfortable and can stress the weld. Keep a sizing sample set on hand so clients can feel the difference before you cut.

Welding and finishing different chain types

Every chain style welds a little differently. Dapped disc chains have flat surfaces that sit well against each other, so the weld closes cleanly with minimal cleanup. Figaro chains have larger links, so you may need a slightly larger jump ring or a small connector to bridge the ends. Mixed-metal chains require you to match the filler metal to the link you are welding; welding a silver link to a gold-fill link takes a moment more heat control. After welding, use a fine radial disc or polishing pin to smooth the joint without removing the gold layer. A light touch with a fine grit is safer than a heavy pass with a coarse one. Finish with a soft cloth and check the joint under good light before the client leaves.

Planning your chain inventory

Stock at least two link styles and two metal colors so clients can choose in person. Disc and dapped styles sell well for first-time clients because they are lightweight and easy to wear. Figaro and mixed-metal styles attract repeat clients who already own a simple chain. Buy by the foot or in short spools so you can cut exact lengths without waste. Keep a small bin of scrap links for weld tests. Track which style sells fastest in your area, then reorder that one first. If a chain is only sold in a fixed length, plan your cuts around that length rather than assuming you can buy any size.

Decision rules for choosing a permanent jewelry chain

• Client wants a light, everyday chain: Choose a 14/20 gold-fill dapped disc chain. The curved 4.4mm discs lie flat and resist snagging on sleeves and keyboards. Best first chain for new permanent jewelry clients.
• Client wants a two-tone statement: Choose a mixed-metal Figaro with silver and gold-fill links. The alternating pattern gives visual weight without a clasp. Check spool length before promising a custom size.
• Client has a larger wrist or wants an anklet: Size up by 1/2 inch for wrists and 1/2 to 1 inch for anklets. Add the weld joint length before cutting. A chain that is too tight stresses the weld.
• You are welding a gold-fill chain: Use low heat, work quickly, and finish with a fine grit radial disc or polishing pin rather than a coarse one. Test on a scrap link first.

Product facts

• Diamond Cut Dapped 4.4MM Disc Chain - Gold Fill 14/20 for Permanent Jewelry "Sol" 3FT: 14/20 gold-filled Italian dapped disc chain with 4.4mm discs and 0.25mm thickness, sold by the foot. The thin, curved discs keep the chain light and reflective, which suits wrist and neck pieces for clients who want a subtle look.
• Mixed Metal Figaro, 3 Silver Short Links + 1 Gold Fill Long, 2.6MM - "Alice" (5ft spool): Mixed-metal Figaro chain with three sterling silver short links followed by one larger gold-fill link, 2.6mm, sold only in 5-foot spools with a maximum order of 20 feet. The fixed spool length and limited availability mean you should plan cuts carefully and reserve this chain for clients who specifically want a two-tone Figaro.
• Radial Discs, Polishing Pins & Points - With Organizing Case (116 piece): 116-piece radial disc and polishing pin assortment with an organizing case, including 5/8-inch discs in grits from 80 to extra fine. Having multiple grits on hand lets you smooth a weld joint without over-polishing the gold layer, and the case keeps the right grit within reach during a client session.

Fit guidance

Best for

• Permanent jewelry artists who weld chains on clients daily
• Clients who want a lightweight chain for wrists or necks
• Clients who want a two-tone Figaro statement piece

Not for

• Clients who need a removable clasp
• Artists who cannot test weld settings on scrap first